{ Are you so bored right now? Do you just want to make the risotto? Skip the rambling and go straight to the recipe! }
Well, I'd love to say spring is here – and it was, for a second – but it's cold and wet and miserable so I'm still feeling comfort food. And honestly, warm weather doesn't make that craving go away, which is why I came home and made faro risotto a few weeks ago on a warm day. But I'm still mad about the weather, mainly because it's satisfying to be annoyed by something I can't change that really isn't the worst thing. And I am so craving humidity because at my age, my skin is desperate for it. But I digress.
I was going to make it earlier that week, but the children used my farro. (Yup. Humble brag. I'm super proud of their interest in experimenting in the kitchen, and the middle one made a darned delicious mushroom and farro concoction that night. His older brother specializes in breakfast. I also appreciate that they knew a bag of Anson Mills farro piccolo might be reserved for something. Which it was, but I told them to go for it because of the aforementioned pride, the desire for them to make dinner instead of ordering pizza, and my ability to go buy more at any time.)
Though there are other farros out there, I love me some Anson Mills. Glenn Roberts started the business of growing grains right here in South Carolina and he and his team couldn't be more committed to the integrity of the grains and their farming practices. Also, Anson Mills grains may have made their way around the world, but you can still get a personal answer to an email darn quickly.
I'd made risotto using farro before, but when it came time to write down the recipe, I wanted to get it right. I emailed Anson Mills.
"Hi! I’m making a farro risotto with your farro piccolo. Do you recommend soaking the farro first? And do you recommend a certain farro to liquid ratio? I’m using duck stock, if that makes a difference. Thank you!"
The answer was almost immediate.
"Yes, soak in the fridge at least 2 hours... increases aroma/flavor profile. Start with 1.5 stock to 1 dry by volume and hold some stock simmering on the side to add as necessary to achieve al dente... cook covered at simmer, checking every 5 minutes for texture and hydration."
– Glenn Roberts
Not only did the man himself answer my email, his risotto advice rivals that of John Podesta. So I soaked the farro while I chopped and assembled my other ingredients. Also, Glenn's ratio of farro to liquid turned out to be right on.
I used duck stock because I happened to have some, but any stock will do for risotto. The more flavorful the meat, vegetables, or fish, the richer your risotto will be, but you knew that. Once you make this, you'll probably want to play around with the recipe, so here are a few universal tips.
Rules for Risotto
You can use butter or oil at the beginning. I like a mixture of the two.
You'll add the liquid slowly, but from the time you add it to the pan, your farro should cook for a total of 30 to 35 minutes. I find it helpful to set a timer so I know if I need to be adding liquid more quickly or if I need to slow down.
Start with a ratio of 1½ parts liquid to 1 part farro by volume.
Add more liquid when you can run a spoon across the bottom of the pan and it takes a second to cover the surface again.
If you need a little more liquid at the end to reach al dente perfection and you're out of stock, use a splash of wine.
Risotto is easy, but you can't walk away, so make sure you have something fun to watch, or someone fun to talk to, while you stir.
Farro, in case you were curious, is hulled wheat, and it's a hearty substitute for rice in risotto or other dishes. It's chewier than some grains and my kids love it. It works as well in a cold salad as it does in a hot dish. You can use it in soup in place of barley and it's probably pretty good as a hot breakfast cereal. As for risotto, I prefer a piccolo farro because its smaller size more closely mimics medium grain rice, but a larger grain would be better for soups and salads. So let's have fun with farro!
FARRO RISOTTO WITH WILD MUSHROOMS AND TOMATOES
◔ Makes 4 to 6 servings
⧖ 45 minutes, mostly passive stirring
For mushroom and tomato mixture:
1 tablespoon olive oil
5-6 ounces wild mushrooms, sliced
2 small (or one large) tomatoes
½ cup dry white wine
For risotto:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter (substitute olive oil if cooking for vegan guests)
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 shallot (or small onion), chopped
2 cups Anson Mills farro piccolo, dry
2½ cups duck or chicken stock (substitute vegetable stock if cooking for vegetarian guests)
1 tablespoon Herbes de Provence
½ teaspoon each salt and pepper (additional to taste)
Optional: 1 teaspoon dried chili flakes
For garnish:
Grated Parmesan
Fresh thyme
Dried chili flakes (optional)
Prepare the mushroom and tomato mixture:
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a pan and add mushrooms. Cook until soft, about 5 minutes, stirring to prevent sticking.
Deglaze pan by cutting a hole in the top of each tomato and squeezing the juice into the pan.
Chop tomatoes and add them to the mushrooms.
Add ½ cup white wine to pan, and salt and pepper to taste.
Stir occasionally to prevent sticking until most liquid is absorbed.
Remove from heat.
Prepare the risotto:
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a pan and add garlic and shallot, stirring until fragrant, 1-2 minutes.
Add farro to pan and stir until coated in oil, 2-3 minutes.
Heat stock and keep it at a simmer while you cook.
Add one cup stock to pan and stir until almost absorbed.
When you can scrape a spoon through the farro and see the bottom of the pan for a couple seconds, add another ½ cup of stock and the Herbes de Provence, ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper, and (optional) chili flakes.
Continuing adding stock in ¼ cup increments until it's all absorbed.
Add mushroom and tomato mixture, stir to totally combine, and test farro for doneness.
If you need more liquid, add a splash of white wine.
Serve immediately, garnishing each plate with Parmesan, thyme, and dried chili flakes.
Notes:
Of course you can substitute vegetable stock to keep the dish vegetarian.
Of course you can skip the cheese and substitute olive oil for the butter if you want to keep it vegan. And it will still be delicious!
This recipe may seem like a big hassle, but once you master risotto, it'll probably become a favorite easy meal. There are endless variations.
Once you've gotten good at it, you can probably cook the mushrooms and tomatoes while you're stirring the risotto instead of doing it ahead of time.
Make sure everyone comes to the table promptly and ask the most brief speaker to say the blessing if that's a thing you do. Risotto should be served immediately and hot!
So, what are your favorite lighter comfort foods? And how ready are you to stop wearing a jacket that makes you sweat by noon? Also, what's your favorite moisturizer for when the weather is still cold when it shouldn't be? Assuming you can't spend half of every day in a bathtub full of coconut oil.